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Corte fabric is usually woven by men on foot-treadle looms. The amount of material used in a corte can vary considerably, ranging from two to more than six yards, and often has a panel
of the same fabric added for length. While skirts are most often made of cotton, acrylic and rayon threads are becoming increasingly
common.
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The most common type of corte is a wrap-around skirt that consists of a cut of cloth joined to form a tube into which the woman steps. Excess material is wrapped around the body and folded at the waist in pleats according to local usage. Another style, supposedly adapted from the Spanish and worn in Xela and Coban, is tightly gathered at the waist with a drawstring.
An embroidered seam (randa) is often used to join the skirt panels and can be found in a variety of stitches and styles that varies from village to village. The randa of San Martin Chile Verde, for example, is a simple zigzag stitch, while "special use" cortes of Xenacoj feature an elaborate hand-embroidered design with bird and flower motifs. Skirts of similar base material but worn in different villages, can sometimes be differentiated by subtle differences in the randa. For example, the women of Santa María de Jesús use the San Juan Sacatepéquez morga with a randa in colors and designs of their choosing.
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In a few villages, mostly in the department of Huehuetenango (e.g. Colotenango) the corte is still woven by women on the backstrap loom and features brocaded embellishments. Unusual cortes include the yellow rayon ones of San Pedro Sacatepéquez (San Marcos), and the red skirts of Nebaj and Chajul.
The use of a village specific traditional corte is rapidly fading as popular styles synthesize into a generic national costume. Foot treadle woven double jaspe cortes from Salcaja are worn all over the country. They are distinguished by their tie-dyed threads, ikat, in both the warp and weft. Pepinado cortes, first produced in Cantel, and featuring multi-harness woven figures reminiscent of jaspe designs, with brilliant stripe arrangements, are becoming increasingly popular. As with the selection of any element of dress emerge considerations of status, tradition and personal preference. |
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